Wine Club June 2022

2020 Pandolfa Battista Chardonnay IGT Rubicone

Emilia-Romagna, Italy

$24.48

Where

Wealthy and fertile, the Italian wine region of Emilia-Romagna was blessed by the gods. Grand cities like Bologna, Ferrara and Modena pull in international sightseers who come to devour the region’s lavish culture. Stunning romanesque and renaissance architecture are a feast for the eyes. Gastronomic delights include some of Italy’s finest cuisine. Emilia-Romagna is after all the home of prosciutto crudo di parma, parmigiano reggiano, mortadella, aceto balsamico, and lasagne alla bolognese. Much of the region’s landscape is composed of the broad Padan Plain, which is heavily planted to vine. To the south and west, the Apennine Mountains separate the region from neighboring Tuscany. In the east the topography transitions to low-lying coastal plains which meet the Adriatic Sea. With 58,000 hectares under vine, Emilia-Romagna is a viticultural powerhouse.

What

Although joined politically, Emilia and Romagna lay claim to distinct wine cultures. The larger of the two, Emilia is located in the west. The overriding influences here originate in northern Italy. Romagna, which lies in the east, is closely linked to central and southern Italy. A testament to this fact is that Sangiovese accounts for nearly half of all plantings in Romagna. Interestingly, Sangiovese is thought to have originated in Romagna.

The Pandolfa Battista is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes harvested from within the appellation of Rubicone, an IGT that corresponds to the entirety of Romagna. The name of the designation comes from the Rubicon river, which was crossed by the legions of Julius Caesar in 49 BCE, kicking off civil war. To maintain freshness, the Battista was fermented and aged for a short 3 months in a stainless steel tank.

Who

Located near Predappio, the Pandolfo estate is steeped in history. Dating back to the 1300’s, it was purchased by Giuseppe Ricci in 1941. The name of the estate comes from the Lord of Fano, Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, who based himself here in the mid 1400’s. A daring military leader, Malatesta was also a poet and patron of the arts. When Ricci obtained the estate he set himself to renovating the villa and replanting the land to vine. During the 1970’s his daughter Noelia continued her fathers work, expanding the vineyards and building a new winery. Today Pandolfo is managed by Noelia’s grandson, Marco Cirese. The sprawling 90 hectare estate is planted to vineyards, olive trees, and fruit trees. Oenologist of Montevertine fame, and protegé of Giulio Gambelli, Paolo Salvi consults in the cellar.

What’s in the bottle comes first, but throw in a great label and we’re really happy. Colorful and eye-catching, Pandolfa’s thematic wine labels feature reimagined renaissance portraits. For this Chardonnay the winery chose to feature the likeness of Battista Sforza, the wife of Malatesta’s bitter enemy.

Taste

This unoaked Chardonnay is a refined rendition of the world’s most popular white wine. Forget butter and toast, this wine is fragrant and fresh. Youthful pale straw yellow in color, the nose has pretty aromas of lemon curd, pomelo, grapefruit, green apple and orange blossom. The medium bodied palate is fully dry with crispy acidity, lively tree fruit flavors, and a bitter almond finish.. Cappelletti pasta served with flavorful chicken broth (cappelletti in brodo) is just the thing for this thirst-quenching wine.

2020 Domaine de la Rosière Jongieux Blanc

Savoie, France

$20.07

Where

Named after the village of the same name, Jongieux is a cru designation within the appellation of Vin de Savoie. Also known as Savoy, Savoie is one of France’s smallest wine regions. This mountainous area sits near the border with Switzerland, south of Lake Geneva. Stunning scenery and world class ski resorts make this a prime destination for both summer and winter gadabouts. Politically Savoie has only been part of France since the late 1800’s. Prior to this the Duchy of Savoy was an independent nation with origins dating back to the early 1400’s. First centered in Chambéry, and then Torino, the duchy once controlled a large portion of France and northern Italy. The village of Jongieux lies on the western slopes of the Mont du Chat mountain ridge, overlooking the Rhône river. The sunniest cru of Vin de Savoie, the local climate is slightly warmer thanks to a ridge that blocks cool mountain air. Additionally, limestone soils retain daytime heat, moderating nighttime temperatures in the vineyard.

What

As expected for such a bijou appellation, wine production in Savoie is miniscule. Altogether, the region accounts for only 0.5% of all the wine made in France. What is produced is largely consumed by thirsty locals. The most commonly planted grape is Jacquère, a variety known for piercing acidity and fresh alpine characteristics.

This wine from Domaine de la Rosière is a textbook example of a 100% Jacquère from Savoie. The grapes were harvested from vines planted on southwest facing slopes which were sustainably farmed. The average vine age is 25 years. Hand harvested late in the growing season, the grapes were pressed with a pneumatic press to gently extract flavor and aromas. To best preserve freshness, the wine was fermented in a stainless steel tank and malolactic fermentation (which gives more milky acidity) was blocked.

Who

Located in the village of Jongieux, Domaine de la Rosière is a historic winery that can trace its beginnings to the late 19th century. Today it’s managed by Eric Carrel and his father François, who farm 13.5 hectares of vineyards in the appellations of Jongieux and Marestel. All of the vineyards are planted to traditional varieties – Jacquère, Altesse, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Mondeuse. The vines in Jongieux are planted on very steep slopes which were created by ancient glaciers. Limestone dominant soils and 2-3 hours of additional daily sunshine ensure ideal grape ripeness, so Eric and François don’t often need to chapitalize their wines. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale, all of the vineyards have grass planted between the rows to reduce yields and only organic fertilizers are applied.

Taste

In the words of wine writer Hugh Johnson, drinking Jacquère is like “drinking bottled mountain air”. Cooling herbal freshness and crisp acidity, make Jacquère one mighty fine refreshing grape variety. Pale lemon green in appearance, on the nose the Domaine de la Rosière Jongieux Blanc displays flinty aromas of green apple peels, grapefruit, lemon, and magnolia. Tightly wound acidity and brisk fruit flavors on the palate are complemented by a lingering mouthwatering finish. You can understand why this style of wine is the go to Savoyard choice for après-ski. Best served well chilled, we suggest pairing it with classic Raclette.

2020 Tempore Generación 76 Tempranillo

Bajo Aragón, Spain

$30.58

Where

Bodegas Tempore is located in Aragón, an autonomous region which lies south of the Pyrenees mountain range at the crossroads between Catalonia and La Rioja. Thanks to its northeastern location, Aragón has historically served as a bridge between the rest of Spain and the Mediterranean Sea. Ideas from France and the rest of Europe came to Aragón much sooner than other parts of Spain. Its most famous son, Ferdinand II (who was married to Queen Isabella I) achieved the Spanish Reconquista and financed the explorations of Columbus. Broad and expansive, Aragón is diverse in topography and climate. Mountainous in the north, in the south the landscape gives to sweeping hot plains. The Ebro River, the second largest river in the Mediterranean basin after the Nile, cuts the region in two. To the west lie the Iberian mountains, which help moderate the region’s overall continental climate. In most years, hot summers are punctuated by frigid cold winters.

What

Aragón is a land where tradition and modernity meet. Traditional Spanish grape varieties like Tempranillo are planted side-by-side with international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The local industry has long been dominated by cooperatives. Selling their wines in bulk, these large producers are geared towards making fruity, accessible wines. In contrast to the cooperatives, there are a handful of family run wineries, like Bodegas Tempore, which are driven to create wines of greater complexity and authenticity.

The Generación 76 is made from Tempranillo grapes harvested from the organically farmed Finca La Merla vineyard in Bajo Aragón. It is part of a line of wines which pay homage to members of the Yago Anzar family; the owners of the winery. The wine’s label portrays Víctor Yago Aznar, who was born in 1976. Vinified with modern techniques, the wine was aged 2 months in 500L American oak barrels.

Who

The Yago Anzar family have been making wine around the town of Lécera for 4 generations. Previously grape growers who sold their fruit to the local wine cooperative, the family decided to create Bodegas Tempore in 2002. The name of the winery, which means “in their time”, was chosen as an ode to this momentous new direction the family were taking. Today the business is run by Paula Yago Aznar, who farms her 75 hectares of vineyards according to organic and biodynamic principles, without the use of herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. Although more difficult than conventional farming, Paula believes the decision to farm this way was crucial for the winery. In her words – “It is a philosophy of life, a way of understanding things that we had clear from the beginning. If you don’t believe it, you won’t sell it”.

Taste

This 100% Tempranillo is the product of Bajo Aragón’s particular climate. Hot enough to assure ideal ripeness, the cool ‘cierzo’ wind assures that the grapes retained their acidity and balance. As such, the Generación 76 Tempranillo is a beautifully concentrated wine with complex texture and freshness. Dark ruby red in the glass, the nose presents tender aromas of blackberry, dried fig, tobacco, and vanilla bean. The full bodied palate offers up round, mouth filling flavors, saten tannins, and balanced barrel spice on the finish. It’s generously structured and lip smackingly delicious! As barbecue season ramps up, you’ll find yourself reaching for a bottle of this wine again and again.

2019 Gota Wine Mesa Vinho Tinto

Tejo, Portugal

$20.03

Where

Occupying a section of central Portugal, not far from the city of Lisbon, lies the wine region of Tejo. Largely dominated by co-operative wineries, up until 2009 Tejo was known as Ribatejo. Holding the distinction of being Portugal’s only fully landlocked wine region, Tejo gets its name from the Tejo river. Known in Spain as the Tajo, this waterway is the longest in the Iberian Peninsula. The river meanders from the Atlantic Ocean to the Montes Universales in eastern Spain, moderating the climates of the areas it crosses. Overall the Tejo region’s climate is warm and dry.

What

In the past the Tejo river served as an important artery between Lisbon and Madrid, bringing considerable wealth to this part of Portugal. Naturally, Spain was a strong market for Tejo’s wines. Production is to this day significant. Low elevation vineyards, which benefit from natural irrigation, produce ample yields, which leads to higher wine production. In overall wine volume, Tejo is second only to Estremadura.

The cépage for the Mesa Vinho Tinto includes Castelão (aka Periquita), Trincadeira Preta, Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), and other local grape varieties. The grapes were harvested from 15 to 30 year old vines planted within the Tejo subregion of Bairro. The fruit was fully destemmed before being macerated and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Élevage took place without any oak influence.

Who

Gota (meaning “Drop” in Portuguese) Wine is the creation of former Tesco wine buyer Natalia Jessa. Originally from Poland, Jessa found her way to Portugal by way of England and Ireland. Upon relocating to Oporto, she was able to leverage her experience with distribution to collaborate with some of the country’s best wine growers. Her ethos, to offer authentic Portuguese wines from indegenous grape varieties at an affordable price. In her words – “Drink it, don’t overthink it.” Having established a foothold in multiple wine regions, Jessa orchestrates everything in partnership with a “winemaker on the ground.” This collaborative approach allows her to obtain the best organically farmed grapes possible.

Taste

The Gota Wine Mesa Vinho Tinto is our idea of a great luncheon wine. It’s fruity, friendly, and fresh. In the glass the wine is vibrant ruby red in color with medium depth. On the nose affable aromas of fresh red plums and ripe strawberries are complemented by hints of spice. The palate offers up generous red fruit flavors and silky tannins that melt into the soft finish. At only 12.48%, you can breeze through a bottle guilt free and headache free. Enjoy it on its own with a slight chill, or serve it with savory Frango no Churrasco (barbecued chicken).

2018 J. Denuziere ‘Les Sérines’ Côtes du Rhône

Rhône Valley, France

$23.34

Where

The home of J. Denuziere, the Rhône Valley is a vast region in southern France. The area is centered around the noble Rhône river, which rises in the Alps of Switzerland. The river’s source is the Rhône Glacier. This large body of ice is also the source of three other major rivers – the Reuss, Rhine and Ticino. Altogether there are around 44,000 hectares of vines in the Rhône Valley. The majority, about 90%, are located in the regions south where the climate is benevolently Mediterranean in character. In the regions north, vineyards experience a slightly cooler climate which verges on continental. Both the north and south are heavily influenced by the strong Mistral, which can bring winds exceeding 90 km/h.

What

The Côtes du Rhône AOC is the most productive wine designation in the Rhône Valley. The appellation accounts for around 50% of the region’s wine production. Most of these wines are red and made from three key grape varieties – Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. This three grape combination, which has spread across the winemaking world, is often referred to as the ‘holy trinity’. Outside of these grape varieties, 18 others are sanctioned to be used as well.

The J. Denuziere ‘Les Sérines Côtes du Rhône is made from Syrah blended with a small percentage of Grenache. The special thing about this particular cuvee is that the grapes were harvested from vines in Côte-Rôtie. Located in the Northern Rhône, this tiny appellation whose name means “roasted slope”, is known for producing some of the worlds finest Syrah based wines.

Who

J. Denuziere is a historic domaine that has been producing wines in the Rhône Valley since 1876. The business was founded in the village of Condrieu by Joanny Paret, who had the desire to elevate the reputation of the area’s wines. Joanny distributed wagon loads of wines to cafés and bistros in surrounding towns. At this time the business was known as Vins Paret. He was eventually succeeded by his son Joseph, who did much to expand the family’s business. The name of the winery was changed in the 1940’s to J. Denuziere when Joseph’s son-in-law, Pierre Denuzière, became the manager. In the 2000’s the business pivoted from producing wine solely from purchased fruit, to also producing some wines from estate grown grapes. Today this full fledged domaine owns vineyards in the areas of Condrieu and Cornas. The winery’s other bottlings are produced from grapes purchased from like minded growers in the regions of Saint Peray, Saint Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, and Côte-Rôtie. The family sold the business to Michel Picard in 2003, who hired winemakers Samuel Montgermont and Caroline Moro in 2013.

Taste

The chameleon of French wine, Côtes du Rhône rouge comes in a myriad of styles. Sometimes light and fresh, in other instances it is bold and spicy. The predominance of Syrah in the blend and the distinguished origin of the grapes, assures that the ‘Les Sérines’ is a complex and concentrated wine. Intense violet red in appearance, the nose provides compelling aromas of blueberries, blackberries, black plums, Rosette de Lyon sausage, bacon fat, and rosemary. The full-bodied palate is packed with concentrated flavors, earthy spice, and mouth filling tannins. Robust with a protracted finish, this wine begs to be served with large servings of grilled meats. We suggest serving it with a grilled rack of lamb prepared with a mixture of garlic, thyme, and rosemary.

2020 Rectoral de Amandi Matilda Nieves

Ribeira Sacra, Spain

$24.27

Where

There is a special allure to the wild wine regions of the world. In an era where seemingly everything has been ground down to minimalist efficiencies, these areas are compelling in their obstinate refusal to knuckle under. Ribeira Sacra is just such a place. Located in eastern Galicia, this Spanish wine region was first planted to vine by the Romans 2,000 years ago. The astonishing terraced vineyards are carved into steep slopes which rise from the Mino and Sil rivers. The visual is reminiscent of other great wine regions, such as France’s Côte-Rôtie or Germany’s Mosel Valley. The precipitous terrain prohibits mechanical means of cultivation. Farmers are required to tend their vines by hand. Backbreaking work when you’re subjected to hot Iberian sun. Given the difficult conditions, it’s not a shock that during the middle 20th century many of the vineyards in Ribeira Sacra were abandoned. It was until the last few decades that growers began reclaiming many of the region’s sites. Of the allowed 2,500 hectares of land for viticulture within the appellation, today around 1,250 hectares are given to vineyards.

What

The red wine’s of Ribeira Sacra are largely made from the Mencía grape variety. Violet-blue in color with high levels of terpenoids (which lend flowery, red-fruit aromas), Mencía was long pigeonholed by Spanish winemakers. The predominant style, fruity and simple, garnered little respect from the wine world’s intelligentsia. The seismic shift came with the discovery of older Mencía vines, which yielded higher quality grapes. When combined with attentive winemaking, a more serious picture of Mencía emerged. Today it is the epitome of a fresher type of Spanish wine.

Rectoral de Amandi’s ‘Matilda Nieves’ cuvée is made from Mencía grapes which were macerated and fermented with natural yeasts for 15-20 days. Both vinification and élevage took place in stainless steel tanks.

Who

Owned by Bodegas Gallegas, Rectoral de Amandi is located in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine appellation. Lying in a privileged position where a 17th century clergy house once stood, the estate has around 180 hectares of vineyards. To supplement its holding , the winery collaborates with around 400 local grape growers. The business was started by Manuel Vázquez, who created his first winery 50 years ago. The most significant producer of wine in Galicia, Bodegas Gallegas manages four additional wineries – Rectoral de Umia (Rías Baixas), Alanís (Ribeiro), Milenium and Arnoya.

Taste

Wine writer Tamlyn Currin, a contributor for jancisrobinson.com and a person who doesn’t pass out accolades undeservedly, describes the Rectoral de Amandi Matilda Nieves as “impishly delicious”. We wholeheartedly agree. Deep violet red in color, this playful wine exudes charismatic aromas of wild blackberry, purple pomegranate, sour cherry, anise, rosemary, and menthol. Mouthwatering acidity is complemented by fine tannins and echoes of crushed rock and saccharin red fruits. Culminating in a lingering finish, this wine is very versatile with food pairings. Well matched with robust meat dishes, we like it with the deli classic Reuben sandwich.