All-Red Wine Club August 2022

2020 Bodegas Félix Callejo Flores de Callejo

Ribera Del Duero, Spain

$26.30

Where

Ribera del Duero is one of Spain’s premier wine regions. Located within Castilla y Leon in northern Spain, it’s home to some of Spain’s most prominent wineries. Translated to English as “on the banks of the Duero”, the region’s name comes from the river that divides it. The Duero River provides much needed water to this inland area that sits 800 meters above sea level. Sheltered by the Sierra de la Demanda and Sierra de Guadarrama mountain ranges, the vineyards experience a strongly continental climate. During the summer months temperatures can reach up to 40°C, whereas during the winter, temperatures can plummet to –18°C. During the growing season a strong contrast between daytime and nighttime temperatures ensures ideal accumulation of ripeness and structure in the grapes.

What

The Flores de Callejo is a youthful expression of Ribera Del Duero’s principal grape variety – Tinto Fino (aka Tempranillo). Whereas most red wines in Ribera Del Duero are broadly structured and full-bodied, this particular cuvée is geared towards freshness. To this end, grapes were manually harvested from multiple high elevation parcels of vines. The vineyards – La Emilia, La Huelga, Astrales, Jaime and Sandelaisa – are located between 830 and 850 meters in elevation and lie near the village of Sotillo de la Ribera. The grapes were hand sorted in the winery and moved via gravity into tanks for spontaneous fermentation. This was followed by maturation for 5 months in a combination of barrels and tank.

Who

Bodegas Félix Callejo was founded in 1989 by Félix Callejo. Born in 1943 in the village of Sotillo de la Ribera, Félix’s father and grandfather had worked in the wine world as grape growers and “corredores de vino”, or local wine brokers. Today management of the winery has been passed to the next generation. All four of Félix’s children are involved in day to day operations. José Félix and Noelia Callejo handle wine production, while Cristina and Beatriz Callejo run the commercial aspects of the business. In charge of winemaking since 2000, José Félix Callejo gained experience working at Pétrus in France and Miguel Torres in Chile. Noelia Callejo joined her brother at the winery in 2009, having previously worked at Viña Cobos in Argentina and Araujo Estate Wines in the United States. Located north of the Duero river, the family organically farms 60 hectares of vineyards planted to a mixture of Tinto Fino, Garnacha, Albillo Mayor and Merlot.

Taste

Vivid ruby red in appearance, on the nose the Flores de Callejo is highly aromatic with marked wild scents of blackberries, ripe figs, bay leaf and balsam. The palate is medium bodied with tart acidity, fresh tannins, and flavors of saccharine black fruits. On the finish the wine is dry and fresh. We suggest pairing this wine with robust tapas dishes like albondigas (Spanish meatballs), croquetas de jamon (ham croquettes), and chorizo al vino (sausage cooked in wine).

2020 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant

Central Coast, United States

Previously $29.13

Where

The Central Coast appellation extends some 450 kilometers from Contra Costa County to the Santa Ynez Valley. Within its borders are 40 sub-AVA’S, including Paso Robles, Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey, and Santa Barbara. In a state that is seeing warmer vintages, the Central Coast’s proximity to the cool waters of the Pacific Ocean is hugely important. Gaps in coastal ranges allow cool breezes from the ocean to funnel into the vineyards. Further inland the Central Coast receives significant sunshine and warmth.

What

Accounting for ¼ of all vineyard plantings in the state, Cabernet Sauvignon is easily the most popular grape variety in California. Now although this may be true, the Golden State has still much more to offer. For instance, Rhône grape varieties have proven particularly well suited to the region’s warm and sunny climate. Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre among others, have been grown in California since the 1800’s. They’re popularity waned over much of the 21st century, but during the Reagan era the ‘Rhône Rangers’ wine collective set in motion a plan to rehabilitate the image of Rhône grape varieties in California. Their plan worked, and today grape varieties of the Rhône ride again!

The Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant is made of 56% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 13% Syrah, and 1% Petit Sirah. The wine’s distinct name and label derives from an obscure law that was passed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1954, which prohibits UFO’s (‘flying cigars’) from landing in vineyards. First introduced in 1986, the style of the wine has morphed in recent years. In order to achieve greater freshness, Mourvèdre was dropped from the blend and the percentage of Cinsault was increased.

Who

Bonvivant Randall Grahm is THE Rhône Ranger! The eponymous moniker was given to him by Wine Spectator in 1989, who featured Randall on the magazine cover dressed as the Lone Ranger. Born in Los Angeles and educated at the University of California at Davis, he originally purchased Bonny Doon winery to create ‘the Great American Pinot Noir.’ Although his efforts with Pinot Noir bore little fruit, his experiments with Rhône grape varieties proved wildly successful. Serendipitously this led Randall to become the champion of Rhône grape varieties in America. He has achieved this not only through the quality of his wines, but also through frequent lectures and poetic newsletter articles. Although Randall Grahm no longer owns Bonny Doon, having sold the winery in 2019, he is still a partner in the business and has stayed on as head winemaker.

Taste

The Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant is where California and the south of France collide. In one corner you have nicely ripened fruit, in the other you have fine grained spice and earthiness. Medium garnet red in hue, on the nose you find savor aromas of wild raspberries, dusty red currants, stewed plums, leather and crushed rock. The palate is medium bodied fine grained tannins and tense acidity. It culminates in a refreshingly savory and youthful finish. Serve this wine slightly cool with cured meats such as saucisson de lyon or rosette lyonnaise.

2020 Judith Beck Ink

Burgenland, Austria

$26.86

Where

Burgenland is an important Austrian wine appellation with a distinct character and history. Today the region is located on Austria’s border with Hungary, but for much of its history Burgenland was joined with its eastern neighbor. The complex and often chaotic story of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire meant that at multiple times Burgenland had Hungarian rulers. In fact in its current form, Burgenland has only been Austrian since 1921. Geographically it forms a strip of land from the Danube river to Styria. The foothills of the Alps flank the region to the west. A major feature is the shallow Lake Neusiedl, which extends the growing season by emitting warm summer heat into the vineyards.

What

This Austrian wine district is home to a flourishing wine industry. Like in Hungary’s region of Tokaji, the area is highly regarded for the quality of its sweet wines. Honeyed and wickedly decadent, their very existence is made possible by Lake Neusiedl, which provides enough humidity to promote noble rot (botrytis) in the vineyards. Even more so though, Burgenland is the home of Austrian red wine. Grape varieties such as Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt happily thrive thanks to the overall warm continental climate. These aren’t flimsy red wines either, but rather concentrated and dense red wines capable of aging.

The Judith Beck Ink is made from a cuvée of two Austrian grape varieties – Zweigelt (90%) and Saint Laurent (10%). Pronounced ‘zz-why-galt’, Zweigelt is the most popular grape in Austria. It was created in 1922 by Friedrich Zweigelt, who crossed St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch. The origins of St. Laurent are murky, but it is thought to be a natural crossing of Pinot Noir with another unknown grape variety.

The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks before being aged in wooden casks for 12 months.

Who

Judith Beck is a winemaker based in the Burgenland commune of Gols, near Lake Neusiedl. The estate was founded in 1976 by her parents, Matthias and Christine Beck. A graduate of Klosterneuburg Viniculture College, Judith earned her stripes by working at some of the worlds finest wineries – Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux, Braida in Piedmont and Errazuriz in Chile. In 2001 she rejoined her parents in Gols, and then assumed full control in 2004. In total she farms 13.5 hectares of vines, with holdings in the vineyards of Altenberg, Gabarinza, Salzberg and Schafleiten. From the get go Judith has farmed sustainably, something her father Matthias did as well. In 2007 she upped the ante and converted fully to biodynamic practices. In her own words – “I seriously believe in this low-intervention winemaking and I am going to continue like that. For me this is not about a trend, but a deeply held commitment.” For her fermentations, only natural yeasts are used, and nothing else is added aside for a small amount of SO2 at bottling, if at all (a max of 30 g/l.) Extending her influence beyond the winery, Judith is a member of the Pannobile association as well as 11 Frauen und ihre Weine’ (11 Women and their Wines). The former being an association of growers in Gols that was formed 25 years ago to bolster and popularize local winemaking and grape varieties.

Taste

In the glass the Judith Beck Ink is vibrant ruby-violet in hue. On the nose primary aromas of sour cherries and cranberries are complemented by scents of cinnamon, clove, and juniper. On the palate the wine is medium bodied with slight tannins and spicy red fruit flavors. The finish is harmonious and fruit-driven. This is the perfect wine to serve with a heartwarming bowl of spicy gulasch, which like this wine, has both Hungarian and Austrian roots.

2020 LaMura Nero d’Avola

Sicily, Italy

Previously $19.66

Where

Italy’s most southern wine region, Sicily has a 2500 year history of producing wine. An ideal Mediterranean climate brings lots of sunshine and little rain. Vine disease has never been much of a problem here, so growers are often organic by default. Vines thrive so readily in Sicily’s volcanic soils that the biggest danger has historically been overly high yields and overproduction. The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, its inner hinterland is mountainous and sparsely populated. Vineyard elevations range from sea level along the coast, up to 3600 feet on the slopes of rumbling Mount Etna.

What

This red wine is made from Sicily’s headlining red grape variety – Nero d’Avola. Initially confined to the southeastern tip of the island, the variety obtained its name from the town of Avola (Nero d’Avola = the Black Grape of Avola.) It is thought that the grape has been grown in this area for hundreds of years. Extremely well suited to Sicily’s hot climate, it thrives in dry conditions.

The grapes for this wine were harvested from vineyards located in Valle del Belice, a hilly area in western Sicily. The vines are trained traditionally, using spalliera and alberello methods. Hand-harvested in September during the evenings, the grapes were destemmed and then gently pressed. Around 10% of the grapes were fermented with the stems to add greater structure and complexity to the wine. Fermented for 3 weeks, pump-overs and délestage (oxygenating the juice and then pouring it back over the skins) were frequently used for ideal flavor extraction.

Who

LaMura is a fully organic winery created by Casa Girelli. Founded in the late 19th century, this family run company has a wide portfolio of wines that represent numerous Italian wine regions. The modern history of the business began with Giovanni Girelli, who purchased a small vineyard in the village of Borghetto. Forced to rebuild after the second world war (the winery was completely destroyed), Giovanni and his son Renato constructed the modern winery that would eventually become the company’s headquarters. Taking over from his father in 1959, Renato greatly expanded Casa Girelli’s reach. The company has proven so successful that today Casa Girelli is the fourth largest wine producer in Italy.

Taste

The LaMura Nero d’Avola is a youthful and easy drinking expression of Sicilian red wine. Bright ruby red in color, punchy aromas of black cherries, prunes, licorice, and allspice leap out of the glass. Ripe sunkissed red fruit flavors are complemented by smooth tannins that coat the medium bodied palate. The finish is persistent and savory. Pair it with classic Sicilian dishes like caponata or pasta alla norma.

2021 Patrick Lambert Gourmandise Chinon

Loire Valley, France

$28.79

Where

The charming medieval town of Chinon lies at the center of the Loire Valley on the banks of the Vienne river. Steeped in history and culture, this town has played an oversized role in French (and English) history. The château that lords over Chinon’s winding streets was the preferred home of Henry II, the birthplace of Richard The Lionheart, and the site where a young Joan of Arc met with the future King of France, Charles VII. Chinon was also home to 16th century writer and satirist François Rabelais.

The modern wine appellation of Chinon ecnompasses 2,300 hectares of land on the western edge of the district of Touraine. Vineyards spread across 19 communes are planted to 3 dominant soil types – gravel/sand, clay/sand, and yellowish sedimentary rock known locally as “tuffeau jaune”.

What

Chinon’s fame derives from the quality of its red wines made from Cabernet Franc. Vines planted to “tuffeau jaune” are especially known to give the best grapes, producing concentrated and tannic wines. The quintessential Chinon is known for berry-scented aromas and a telltale note of capsicum/green pepper.

The “Gourmandise” is a youthful Cabernet Franc made from grapes hand harvested from vines grown on sandy gravel soils near the Vienne. The average vine age is 19 years. The grapes were destemmed and fermented with indegenous yeasts in epoxy-lined tanks and underground tanks lined with glass tiles. Once vinified the wine aged in the same tanks for 6 months prior to bottling.

Who

The wine estate of Patrick Lambert is located about 10 kilometers east of Chinon in the small village of Cravant les Coteaux. Managed by Patrick since 1990, the estate was previously owned by his grandfather. His prized 6.34 hectares of vines lie in an area where many of Chinon’s cru vineyards and most exalted producers are based. When Patrick started farming the vineyards he decided to not only reduce yields, but also convert to organic farming. In 2005 he made the further step of narrowing down his holdings to only his finest vineyards, allowing him to make the highest quality wines possible. The vines average in age between 19 to 60 years. Patrick’s cellar cool and dark cellar is dug directly into the limestone bedrock beneath the vineyards. Naturally insulated and seemingly impervious to the changes of time, it houses a collection of wines going back to 1979, exhibiting the staying power of Patrick’s wines.

Taste

The Gourmandise cuvée is Patrick’s most youthful and immediately inviting wine. Bright black-ruby in appearance, the nose has uplifted aromas of lush strawberries, black raspberries, crunchy green pepper and gravel. The palate is medium bodied with luscious red berry flavors, pliant tannins, and leafy spice. The finish is lively and earthy. Serve this wine moderately chilled with rustic terrines or patés.

2019 Château Francs Magnus Bordeaux Supérieur

Bordeaux, France

$25.70

Where

A full hour drive from the Medoc, the Libournais is on the eastern fringe of Bordeaux. Within its borders, the grape growing areas of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion are the stars. Neighboring areas enjoy less renown. One such area, Fronsac, is making a play for greater exposure. Located on the northern bank of the Dordogne river, its 800 hectares of vineyards dot a serene landscape of woodlands and hills. The ‘Tuscany of the Gironde’, its limestone soils are similar to the soils in Saint-Emilion. As the region’s stunningly grand Châteaux suggest, the wines of Fronsac were once favored by the elites of French society. A notoriety the region intends to regain.

What

Like in Pomerol and Saint-Emilion, Merlot is the dominant varietal in Fronsac (60% of all plantings). Late ripening Cabernet Sauvignon plays a supporting role. Comparatively, the wines of Fronsac are less plush and glossy. Their charm is in their grit and edginess.

The Château Francs Magnus Bordeaux Supérieur is made from a cuvée of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were harvested from 13 hectares of vineyards planted on a limestone plateau. Fermented in a combination of stainless steel and concrete tanks, the grapes weren’t crushed to preserve as much freshness as possible. Throughout vinification the wine underwent daily pigéage (breaking up and submerging of the grape skins) and remontage (pumping the wine over the grape skins). This was followed by maturation in vat (70%) and first use barrels (30%).

Who

Since 2011, Château Francs Magnus has been owned by the Roux-Oulié family. The winery is managed by third generation winemaker Arnaud Roux-Oulié, whose family has owned Château Lagüe since the 1950’s. Trained by his grandfather, Arnaud officially took over the family business when he was only 20 years old. He immediately set about expanding the business by acquiring 2 hectares of vineyards and creating Château Carlmagnus. The name of the winery was inspired by the Emperor Charlemagne, who built a fortress in the area during the 8th century. The estate would eventually become one of the finest in Fronsac. Not to be stuck in one place though, Arnaud has continued to better his estates by converting over to organic viticulture. From 2020 the wines will be certified by the Ecocert.

Taste

The Château Francs Magnus is a concentrated and moreish red wine for any occasion. Deep purple red in the glass, the nose shows riotous aromas of ripe red plums and black currants. Given time to breath, hints of bay leaf and eucalyptus appear. The palate is medium-full bodied with close-grained tannins and chocolatey bitterness. The finish is generous and lingering. We suggest pairing this wine with rich meat based dishes like tender braised lamb shanks or rosemary-garlic lamb shoulder.